Mexico - Part I
Baja California, Baja California Sur
On December 20, we crossed the border at Tecate into Baja California, Mexico. The entire process at the border was surprisingly smooth and efficient. After obtaining our FMM (Forma Migratoria Múltiple), we successfully secured a 10-year Temporary Import Permit (TIP) for our motorhome, ensuring our long-term travel plans in Mexico remained hassle-free. Our first impressions of Tecate were mixed: the town was bustling with heavy traffic, numerous police and military pickups patrolling the area, and streets lined with a noticeable amount of waste. Despite this, the energy of the town was vibrant and unmistakably Mexican.
For our first overnight stay in Baja, we camped near the Zona Arqueológica El Vallecito, a fascinating site featuring ancient petroglyphs and cave paintings. After a peaceful night in this historical location, we continued our journey eastward towards San Felipe, a charming coastal town along the Sea of Cortez. Upon arrival, we settled on the beach and spent six relaxing nights enjoying the serene ocean views. Christmas Eve was particularly special, as we celebrated with a friendly group of fellow overlanders, sharing stories, food, and laughter around a communal fire under a sky full of stars.
Heading further south, we arrived at Playa La Gringa, a picturesque and relatively secluded beach near Bahía de los Ángeles. We welcomed the new year in this tranquil spot, bidding farewell to 2024 while gazing at the shimmering reflections of fireworks in the bay. The sense of peace and remoteness made it a perfect place for introspection and setting intentions for the year ahead.
Our next major stop was in Baja California Sur, at Campground Ojo de Liebre near Guerrero Negro, renowned for its whale-watching opportunities. Unfortunately, we arrived too early in the season, so sightings were limited, but we still managed to catch glimpses of a few majestic gray whales during our boat excursion. Despite the limited sightings, the area’s natural beauty, expansive salt flats, and the presence of diverse bird species made the visit worthwhile.
Continuing our journey southward, we spent two nights in the quaint and historic town of San Ignacio. This charming oasis town, with its lush palm groves and the impressive 18th-century Misión San Ignacio, provided a welcome break from the arid desert landscapes. We then moved on to Mulegé, a small yet inviting town with a rich history and scenic river views. We enjoyed several days relaxing at Playa Los Cocos and the stunning El Requesón beach, known for its striking sandbar that connects two small islands during low tide.
Our next destination was Loreto, one of the oldest settlements in Baja California. Over two days, we indulged in delicious seafood and refreshing drinks at charming local restaurants while strolling through the town's colorful streets. One of the highlights was our drive into the mountains to visit the historic Misión San Javier, an incredibly well-preserved Jesuit mission surrounded by rugged landscapes and centuries-old olive trees.
As we continued our southern route, we passed through Ciudad Constitución and made a brief stop in the quiet fishing town of San Carlos before reaching La Paz. We spent one night in the city, preparing for the next stretch of our adventure. The following day, we drove to Playa El Tecolote, a lively beach popular among overlanders and van-lifers. The vibrant atmosphere, combined with the crystal-clear waters and soft sandy shores, made for an enjoyable stay.
Exploring the west coast, we visited the artsy and colorful town of Todos Santos. One of the most memorable moments here was witnessing the magical release of baby sea turtles at sunset, an experience that left us in awe of nature's wonders. We then spent two blissful nights at Playa Jim, a beautiful and remote beach where we had the rare privilege of spotting whales from the shoreline. Watching these gentle giants breach and play in the distance was nothing short of spectacular.
Reaching the southernmost part of Baja California Sur, we stopped in the famous tourist hub of Cabo San Lucas. Seeking a bit of comfort, we booked three nights at a cozy boutique hotel, Casa Natalia, in San José del Cabo. This charming town had a more relaxed ambiance compared to its livelier neighbor, and we thoroughly enjoyed exploring its art galleries, dining at exquisite restaurants, and strolling along the scenic coastline.
As our time in Baja neared its end, we secured our ferry booking for February 1st, crossing from La Paz to Topolobampo on mainland Mexico. Before departure, we spent our last few days in the peaceful seaside community of Buena Vista, soaking up the tranquility and preparing for the next chapter of our journey. A final stop in La Paz allowed us to stock up on essential food and water provisions before embarking on our ferry trip, eager to discover new adventures ahead.
